Fashion as a key to reading through Henry Selick’s Coraline

PERSPECTIVES. In the 2009 American horror/family movie Coraline, directed by Henry Selick and based on the novel by Neil Gaiman, fashion serves as a powerful narrative device–at times, almost acting as a character itself.

Described by the New York Times as a film that « lingers in an atmosphere that is creepy, wonderfully strange and full of feeling« , here’s a sneak peek into Coraline’s plot. Coraline Jones is a bold young girl who moves into a new home, the Pink Palace, with her parents. Neglected and bored, Coraline roams around the house stumbling upon a secret passageway. As she steps through the enchanted corridor, Coraline ends up in her own living room, but she soon realizes to be in an alternate flawless world. Her “other parents” appear to be perfect, despites their black buttons in place of their eyes, and her “Other Mother” is warm and welcoming. But all that glitters is not gold. Coraline soon discovers she’s trapped in the sinister web of the Other Mother, and she must rely on all her cleverness and courage to free herself and her loved ones from the clutches of this evil creature. 

An artisanal masterpiece

Coraline was brought to life through stop-motion animation—a technique where objects are physically manipulated and photographed frame by frame to create the illusion of movement when played in sequence. Therefore, the artisanal work plays a key role in the making of the movie: every single outfit seen on screen (even the underwear!) was hand stitched by the crew. That careful attention and craftsmanship undoubtedly helped the movie earn a nomination for the Academy Award for Best Animated Feature. 

In Coraline, the significance of each piece of clothing in highlighting the film’s themes is evident from the very beginning. How to forget the iconic yellow raincoat, matching rain boots and blue hair that immediately tell us about Coraline’s quirky and adventurous personality? This colorful outfit contributes to emphasize the gloomy, rainy and melancholic atmosphere surrounding the Pink Palace and its scenario.

Notably, this ensemble is also worn by the Coraline-looking doll with button-like eyes that the Other Mother hand-stitches and places in the house to spy on her. The Other Mother’s fixation on hand-stitching is evident here; it’s the reason why she and her victims have buttons sewn onto their faces—a sinister touch that aligns with the film’s meticulous attention to fashion and detail.

Another memorable piece of clothing in Coraline’s wardrobe is the star patterned sweater that the Other Mother offers her. Paired with black pants and bright blue heeled boots, this outfit is a subtle reference to the night—a fitting hint, as much of the movie takes place in darkness. The stars on the sweater even glow in the dark, enhancing this connection. Another iconic outfit Coraline wears is her orange, polka-dotted pyjamas, which perfectly complement the vibrant colors and multicolored lights of the enchanting Other World.

The Other Mother fashion choices

The Other Mother’s white high-neck pullover and black capri pants when we first meet her are no casual choice. The ensemble helps depict the image of the perfect mother, simple dressed yet put together, constantly dedicated to housework and committed to motherhood. This look contrasts sharply with Coraline’s real mother, who wears similar but noticeably worn-out clothes, including a frayed collar that becomes a stylish turtleneck on the Other Mother. Coraline’s real mother’s attire reflects her struggles to balance work, housekeeping, and motherhood, highlighting the gap between the two worlds.

The dotted black dress worn by the Other Mother in the final act of the movie is another pivotal piece. She wears this dress during her transformation into her true, spider-like form, with the dress morphing alongside her—its neckline becoming pointed, mirroring the skeletal contours of her body.

Symbolism in accessories and props

Enhancing Caroline’s whimsical aesthetic are her black postman hat and her crossbody messenger bag. Another atypical figure who stands out through his fashion choices is Coraline’s father. His “Michigan State” sweater is impossible to forget, giving him that “nerdy” vibe that perfectly suits his computer-based job. 

In the Other World, he can be seen wearing an orange nightshirt resembling his daughter’s pyjamas, and that color harmony enhances the lively and vibrant tones of the wicked scenery. Another striking example is the eccentric Mr. Bobinsky, owner of a mouse circus. He is first presented as very scruffy and untidy, wearing a stained thank top that barely fits his belly. Yet, on the other side of the door, he appears clean and posh in his tailored showman suit. In the Other World, everything is meant to look better and fashion makes no exception. 

One emblematic scene takes place when Coraline and her mother go shopping for her school uniform. The shop is dull and grey, but one item catches Coraline’s attention: a pair of orange and green striped gloves. She begs her mom to buy them, but she refuses. This moment underscores Coraline’s increasing dissatisfaction with her mundane reality and her longing for a more vivid, captivating world—one she believes she finds in the Other world. At the end of the film, Coraline’s mother surprises her with the much-desired gloves. This simple gesture carries deeper meaning, indicating that color is indeed present in the real world, and so is love.

Luciana Ferrara