Climate change activists steal the spotlight of Fashion Week shows

Many activists steal the attention of the media by interrupting fashion week shows with strong ecological messages. Runways have become a podium for political activists and associations fighting against climate change, such as Extinction Rebellion, Just Stop Oil, Youth for Climate and many others, a way to bring the light on their battle. 

The second reason is the fashion system itself: two collections of ready-made clothes for men and for women a year, every year, and for every brand, of which those presented at the Fashion Weeks. Fashion is a prominent symbol of overconsumption and pollution. The fashion industry is one of the most polluting in the world, responsible for tonnes of textile waste and overproduction, and causing 4 billions tonnes of CO₂ per year, according to the ADEME. While some brands try to be more aware of climate change, many use greenwashing as a way to improve their image. They embody the paradox of discussing better production while producing far too much.

Between unease and crisis communication

During the shows, spectators don’t know how to react. Should they applaud? Should they interfere? Should they stay silent? Some of them choose to film and post it on social media. When these political actions are published, they seem to become a performance themselves, outdoing the original one that took place a few seconds ago. In a time when everything is image, rebellion ends on Instagram. The message has then two publics: the first one is the public present at the show. They are the ones consuming these products, those with money, and therefore those with the most power. As the model and actress Lily Cole said, “Realise the political power of your money and spend it with the brands you know are treating their workers and the environment in the best possible way.” According to her, having money is not an excuse but an invitation to consume better, so if this public wanted the fashion to change, the fashion would change.

The second public, and the more important, is people seeing this on screens. Activists know that fashion is a worldwide mediatic theatre, and a well-written sign or an overwhelmed security guard have more impact than a thousand press releases. They want their actions to be seen by as many people as possible, and interruption, scandal and strong messages are the solution. 

The show must go on

However, the brands try to control their show and their image, even with these interruptions. They often communicate about these actions, bringing more visibility, and sometimes appropriate the fight for their image, even if they disagree. Activism is responsible for a lot of high fashion brands stopping fur a few years ago for example, such as Dior, Chanel or Gucci. On the Dior Fall-Winter 2003-2004 runway, a protester from PETA interrupted the show with a huge sign reading “FUR SHAME”. A giant lilac fur coat arrived on the podium just after this action, but the message is in every mind. It is short but clear: Dior, but also the clients of the brand or of the show, should be ashamed to wear first-hand fur.

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Une publication partagée par History in Threads (@history.in.threads)

A brand and its creator always try to keep their chin up, to avoid any form of scandal and to maintain their image intact, even if it means giving attention and visibility to these interruptions. But some fashion figures realise that fashion needs to relay these messages not for image but for conviction, such as Stella McCartney or Marine Serre. They fight for fashion to change. Overconsumption, greenwashing, pollution, and animal exploitation are the main battles now and must be stopped. As stated by the activists from Extinction Rebellion at the New York Fashion Week in September 2023, there is “no fashion on a dead planet”.